Iceland feels like another planet, waterfalls tumbling from cliffs, steaming geothermal baths, black sand beaches, and glaciers that stretch beyond the horizon. Over seven days, we explored some of the country’s most iconic landscapes, moving from Reykjavík to the south coast and back again.
Here’s a snapshot of the journey…
Thursday: Into the Lava & Soaking in Krauma
Our adventure began with a drive north of Reykjavík, to explore The Cave Víðgelmir, Iceland’s largest lava cave. A guided tour took us deep underground, where vast chambers reveal the incredible force of past volcanic eruptions (when they say wear warm clothes, they mean it, layer up for this one).
From there, we made a short detour to Hraunfossar, where dozens of springs cascade out of a lava field into the turquoise (if skies are blue) Hvítá river. The water is a creamy grey colour, made so because of what they call “glacier flour”. A quick stop at the free parking area gave us time to stretch our legs, buy some warming tomato soup before the final highlight of the day Krauma.
Set beside Europe’s most powerful hot spring, Deildartunguhver, Krauma combines geothermal water with cold glacier melt for the perfect soak. We ended the day here with a relaxing soak and it was worth every penny!
Then it was back to basecamp at Vindás, Reykjavík for the night.
Friday: Canyons & Black Sand Beaches
Heading east, we left Reykjavík behind and made our way toward Iceland’s south coast. The first stop was Skógafoss Waterfall, one of Iceland’s most iconic natural wonders. Its thundering 60-metre drop is spectacular from below, but climbing the steep staircase beside it rewards you with panoramic views.
From there we continued on towards Vik, stopping at Reynisfjara Beach to see the geology and lava columns, where Atlantic waves crash against volcanic sands. Just above the town of Vik sits Vík í Mýrdal Church, offering sweeping views across the coast, it makes for a striking photograph if you have blue skies and sunshine.
Further along the South Coast, we paused at Café Vatnajökull for coffee (a great stop!), and the day ended at Múlagljúfur Canyon. A hidden gem reached by a short rough track easily accessed from the coast road. The hike took around three hours, leading us to breath-taking views of jagged cliffs, glacial rivers, and lush green slopes. This was a stop not to be missed, we were awestruck!
That evening, we checked into the Foss Glacier Lagoon Hotel in Hnappavellir for the next two nights, perfectly placed for the glacier adventures ahead.
Saturday: Icebergs & a Glacier Adventure
The day began with a short 30-minute drive to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where immense icebergs drift toward the ocean. Just across the road, we strolled to Diamond Beach where chunks of ice sparkle against the black volcanic sand.
But the main event was the Ultimate Glacier Adventure at Fjallsárlón.. Spotting the big roadside sign for “Iceberg Boat Tours,” we joined our guides for an unforgettable afternoon on both water and ice. Walking on the glacier, surrounded by crevasses and towering blue walls, was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
We returned to the hotel for an 8pm dinner, still buzzing from the day.
Sunday: Waterfalls, Pizza & a Lava Show
The morning began with a hearty breakfast to fuel us up for the drive back along the South Coast road. Setting off on the same road, we didn’t expect the new scenes we were seeing. That’s the thing about Iceland, every cloud or shift in weather changes everything. Not just how you feel in the elements but the colours you see and the sounds you hear as water falls become more powerful!
We drove on to Vík for lunch at Black Crust Pizzeria, where the volcanic-inspired dough felt right at home on the south coast and with time to spare a quick visit to Víkurfjara Black Sand Beach.
In the afternoon, we caught the Vík Lava Show, an immersive one-hour experience that brings Iceland’s fiery geology to life. It was truly excellent.
Our last stop of the day involved a short walk to Kvernufoss Waterfall, one of Iceland’s best-kept secrets. Unlike the more famous falls, this one is often quieter than the other, and you can even walk behind the curtain of water.
By evening, we were back at our Airbnb near the capital, ready to eat and sleep.
Monday: The Golden Circle
No trip to Iceland is complete without the Golden Circle Tour! We selected a few key stops and set off from Reykjavík around 9am, we drove first to Kerið Crater, a striking volcanic lake ringed by red rock.
Next came Friðheimar, a greenhouse restaurant where everything on the menu revolves around tomatoes (even the deserts and they were stunning!). We stopped for brunch (the kitchen opens at 11.30am but either book or get there early, it’s a popular stop), before continuing to the mighty Gullfoss Waterfall and the steaming Geysir Hot Springs nearby.
We ended the day at Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site where you can literally walk between tectonic plates. Parking fees apply, but access is available 24/7. This was our favourite stop on our self-guided tour, with plenty of room to escape the crowds in stunning surroundings with panoramic views.
Back in Reykjavík for the night, it felt like the trip was racing by too quickly when the Aurora App fired up and had us getting dressed, out the door on a mission to see the Northern Lights. Not really sure where to go for the best chance, we headed back out to the national park where light pollution would be low.
Be careful if you do head out at night, we were amused and surprised at the fast-paced coach and car traffic racing around the roads. Back at the park we quietly slipped away from the crowds (I’m not a tourist, you are!), once again navigating the now dark path between the fault line.
Tuesday: A Day in Reykjavík
Our final day was slower-paced, exploring the capital on foot and after breakfast at our Airbnb, we jumped onto a bus and headed into Reykjavik.
We had planned to join a free walking tour, but decided on a lie in and simply plotted key sites into Google maps. We strolled down Laugavegur Street browsing shop windows, walked around the Old Harbour and back up Skólavörðustígur (Rainbow Street) to look at Hallgrímskirkja Church before heading indoors for a cosey rest stop.
We had a list of possible indoor options, and we chose to settle into Bar 22, after enjoying a stroll to walk off the best fish and chips we’d ever eaten. Whatever you choose to do Reykjavík offers plenty of ways to round off your Iceland adventure with what we’ve come to know as our Reykjavik Rest Day.
Wednesday: Travelling Home
With a 4pm flight it would be remiss to not make the most of the last day. We didn’t need to drop our hire car back to Blue Rentals at Keflavik Airport until mid-afternoon so we planned a loop that took in some stops on the way back. The long way home!
Seltún Geothermal Area was the first and although it doesn’t have geysers shooting up hot water in my opinion it’s far more interesting than the Geysers on The Golden Circle Tour! (it was much quieter, so easier to enjoy). Only minutes away from here we took in a turquoise lake as we were passing, on our way to Krýsuvíkurkirkja. A quiet, almost miniature black church in a vast landscape.
We moved on to Hópsnes Lighthouse, very near Grindavik. A gravel road that loops with views of the coast (with more time we might have walked it), and orange rusted shipwrecks, creating a contrast against the black lava fields.
As you leave Grindavik you can see how close last year’s lava flow got to the town & the defences they have in place to protect their homes and businesses. The road back to the airport takes you past the bridge between two continents and that became the last stop on our trip of a lifetime.
Takeaway Moments…
From underground lava tubes to towering waterfalls, from drifting icebergs to steaming thermal baths, Iceland is a land of extremes. Seven days barely scratches the surface, but this itinerary covers an unforgettable mix of fire, ice, and everything in between.
This was a bucket-list trip, grown out of fantasises that took root in the Covid lock downs. 2024 taught me that we are not promised the days we all hope for and our response to that is bucket lists are for today, tomorrow and ongoing.
Our legacies, the way we live on after we’re gone, will be through the memories we make and share with the people we love & sometimes the strangers we meet along the way.